From 1933 to Now: The Man Reviving One of NYC’s Oldest Tofu Shops
Fong On is approaching its 100th year as Chinatown’s oldest tofu shop.
Paul stepped back into his family’s tofu legacy, bringing decades of design and creative work to Chinatown’s oldest tofu shop while keeping its tradition alive and modernizing the craft with small-batch care and contemporary touches.
From Architecture to Artistry in Tofu
After a career as an architect, musician, photographer, and designer, Paul decided to return home—literally—to Chinatown’s storied tofu business. His grandparents opened Fong On in 1933 on Mott Street, firmly rooted in the neighborhood for generations. When Paul revived the shop in 2019 at 81 Division Street, he not only brought the recipes back to life but also infused the brand with a modern identity, designing logos and interiors in-house while reconnecting with a nearly century-old culinary craft.
Daily Devotion: Crafting the Classics
Paul starts his days by grinding the best local soybeans and pressing fresh tofu daily—tofu pudding and rice cakes produced in small batches for that perfect texture. He offers both savory versions (topped with pickled radish, scallions, and crispy shallots) and sweet ones, occasionally adding berries or taro balls for seasonal flair. The process, inspired by Taiwan and his grandfather’s original barrels, is hands-on and intentional, guided by Paul’s care: “I am the one who controls the quality, I give the care and love it needs to” is how he puts it.
Quiet Growth, Rooted in Community
Paul is open to growing the business, whether that means introducing new products or expanding delivery options, but he isn’t looking for rapid expansion or flashy partnerships. His focus is on keeping things steady and true to Fong On’s roots while continuing to serve the local community with care. When it comes to advice for aspiring restaurateurs, he’s honest—know every part of the business, from managing numbers to dealing with suppliers, and be ready for some sleepless nights. For Paul, success isn’t about getting big fast, it’s about staying devoted and doing things right.
A Personal Mission for a Community Legacy
Fong On still isn’t the biggest tofu shop in the city, but Paul’s commitment ensures it remains one of the most genuine. “Home-made tofu, made with love, tradition for nearly a hundred years, another eight more years and it’ll be 100,” he says, capturing both pride and humility.
He doesn’t claim to be the best, but “I give the care and love it needs,” and that devotion is exactly what carries Chinatown’s heritage forward: one silky spoonful of tofu pudding at a time.