Imperial Tea Court: Roy Fong’s Vision for Authentic Chinese Tea in San Francisco
Discover Roy Fong’s journey from Hong Kong to founding Imperial Tea Court, San Francisco’s destination for authentic, high-quality Chinese tea.
When Roy Fong first arrived in San Francisco from Hong Kong as a teenager, tea wasn’t exactly on his mind. Like many immigrant families chasing a better life, Roy’s first priority was simply working hard and fitting in. But life has a way of bringing people back to their roots. For Roy, that homecoming came in the form of tea—an ancient craft that would become his life’s calling and lead him to create Imperial Tea Court, one of San Francisco’s most respected tea destinations.
A Different Kind of American Dream
Roy’s story is anything but conventional. At 14, he immigrated to the U.S. with his family, quickly learning English and embracing American culture. By his early 20s, he was part-owner of an auto repair and towing company, hustling around the clock. "It was a tough business," Roy recalls. "You’re dealing with people on the worst days of their lives, and I was usually the smallest guy in the room when they were looking for someone to take it out on."
Burnt out and longing for something more, Roy booked a solo trip back to Hong Kong—the first trip he’d ever taken on his own. It was meant to be a vacation. What he found instead was a life-changing connection to his childhood memories of tea culture. One day, while wandering the streets of an old neighborhood, an intoxicating aroma pulled him into a traditional tea shop. The owner was roasting Tieguanyin oolong, and Roy was hooked. "I spent the rest of my trip in that tea shop," Roy says. "We became friends, and he taught me everything he knew."
By the time Roy returned to San Francisco, his suitcases were packed not with souvenirs, but with tea.
Building Imperial Tea Court—One Cup at a Time
Back in California, Roy’s obsession with tea grew. At first, he shared it with friends, but over time he began importing rare teas and supplying local dim sum restaurants. "At one point, almost every dim sum place in Northern California was serving tea that came through me," he says. But wholesale had its risks. When the economy took a downturn in the early 1990s, Roy’s customers were slow to pay, and he found himself stuck. That’s when the idea for Imperial Tea Court took root. "I thought, if I sell tea directly to customers, at least if someone bounces a check, it's for $200 and not $35,000."
Opening the shop wasn’t easy. Roy navigated challenging business partnerships, construction delays, and the bureaucratic red tape San Francisco is notorious for. "I had no idea what I was getting into," he said. But with determination—and some help from his father—Roy opened the first Imperial Tea Court location on July 4th, 1993. "I figured everyone had the day off, so maybe they’d come buy something," he stated. Sales were slow at first, but everything changed when the San Francisco Chronicle ran a full-page feature on Roy’s tea house. Soon after, customers from around the world began seeking out Imperial Tea Court for its unparalleled tea selection and expertise.
More Than Just Tea—It’s Tradition
Today, Imperial Tea Court is known for sourcing some of the most exclusive and high-quality Chinese teas available outside Asia. Roy travels frequently to China, Taiwan, Japan, and India, working directly with farmers to source and even help cultivate specific teas. "We control our own farms, roast our own teas, and we’ve been doing it the same way for over 30 years," Roy says. "As far as I know, in America, I’m the only one who still roasts tea the traditional way."
But tea isn’t the only star at Imperial Tea Court. Roy and his team have crafted a food menu that complements their brews, including hand-pulled noodles inspired by a trip Roy took to northwestern China. "We’ve been making our own noodles for about 20 years now," he says. "And we even infuse jasmine tea into our shrimp dumplings. Tea inspires everything we do."
The Tea Master’s Favorite Brew
When asked to name his favorite tea, Roy doesn’t hesitate. "I’m from Hong Kong, so I love Puerh," he says. Known for its deep, rich flavor and aging potential, Puerh tea is often likened to fine wine. "There’s a huge collector’s market for it now. Some people spend millions on the right batch."
But Roy emphasizes that tea is more than a drink; it’s a practice. "With wine, once it’s bottled, it’s done. With tea, you—the drinker—are part of the process. The water you use, the pot, how you steep it—all of it changes the final cup."
What’s Next for Imperial Tea Court?
After more than three decades in the business, Roy is still as passionate as ever. Imperial Tea Court continues to be a gathering place for tea lovers and curious newcomers alike. "Tea houses have always been places where people come together, exchange ideas, and build community," Roy says. "That’s what we try to keep alive."